In 2015, Rolex introduced the 39mm Oyster Perpetual (OP39), a model that received considerable praise for its size, versatility, and accessibility. At Baselworld that year, I tried it on, and I immediately understood why it was so well-received. The 39mm case size felt just right – not too large, not too small – making it an ideal choice for most wrist sizes, regardless of gender. Priced at $5,700, it was a relatively affordable entry into the world of Rolex sports watches.
What truly set the OP39 apart from other models, such as the Daytona or Submariner, was its availability. Unlike the waitlists typically associated with these iconic pieces, the OP39 was much easier to find at authorized dealers, offering a level of accessibility few Rolex models could match.
However, despite its appeal, I hesitated. The three dial colors initially available – dark rhodium, red grape, and blue – didn’t captivate me. I feared that any of them would quickly lose their charm. Yet, the OP39’s impeccable size and sleek profile remained etched in my mind, making it a fixture on my “must-buy” list.
A Game-Changer: The White Dial OP39
In 2018, Rolex surprised fans by introducing two new dial colors for the OP39: black and white. I didn’t get the chance to see these in person right away, but I heard glowing reviews from journalists and collectors alike. Many were particularly taken with the white dial version, calling it one of the year’s most striking releases. Notably, Gary Shteyngart, a well-known watch collector and American novelist, referred to it as his “exit watch” – the one piece he would wear until the end.
Although I had already bought the Explorer 1 (Ref. 214270), another 39mm Rolex, I was intrigued. I loved my Explorer, but the OP39 with the white dial seemed like something special. In 2019, at a casual gathering with fellow watch collectors, one of them wore the OP39 on a vintage green leather strap. It was hard not to be captivated. This wasn’t just any white dial; it was more of an eggshell white, a soft tone that contrasted beautifully with the replica Rolex Explorer 2’s bright white dial.
The OP39’s details didn’t disappoint. Despite being the least expensive Rolex sports watch, it featured white gold hands and markers – elements typically found in much higher-end models. The case was thin and expertly finished, with brushed surfaces, polished sides, and a polished bezel. The warm hue of the eggshell dial perfectly balanced the sharpness of the polished bezel, creating a harmonious and refined look.
A Perfect Everyday Watch
The moment I strapped the OP39 onto my wrist, I knew it was something special. Its versatility was immediately apparent. I could wear it with anything – from a sharp business suit to casual jeans and a T-shirt. With a 100-meter water resistance, I knew I could take it from boardroom meetings to poolside without hesitation. In the winter months, I could swap the bracelet for a comfortable leather strap, and the watch would still feel like the ultimate everyday companion. If I were to wear just one watch, this would be it.
Fast forward to the summer of 2020, when I contacted the Rolex boutique in Prague. They agreed to hold an OP39 with a white dial for me, alongside a replica Rolex Submariner Reference 114060. I decided to sell my Explorer 1 – at a loss, but to make room for the new pieces. The Explorer, though a watch, didn’t resonate with me the same way the OP39 did. I picked up both the OP39 and the Submariner on August 31, only to be hit with a shocking announcement the very next day: both watches were discontinued.
The Discontinuation and Its Aftermath
Rolex’s decision to discontinue the OP39 just two years after its release was a surprise. While the Submariner was upgraded with a new, more symmetrical design and a stronger movement, the OP39’s departure seemed especially abrupt. The white dial version, in particular, seemed to have earned a loyal following among enthusiasts, which made its discontinuation all the more unexpected.
In its place, Rolex introduced a 41mm Oyster Perpetual with a redesigned dial layout, a new movement, and a variety of vibrant “Stella-inspired” dial colors. The OP41 models were an instant hit, offering a more playful take on the sports clone watch. Yet, despite the popularity of the larger models, the OP39’s understated elegance and versatility left a void that hasn’t been easily filled.
As time passed, the OP39’s limited production and growing demand led to a sharp increase in its secondary market value. Prices for a white dial OP39 now exceed $9,000, and they’re expected to rise further as supply dwindles.
I now understand why Shteyngart referred to the OP39 as his “exit watch.” It’s the kind of piece I can imagine wearing for decades, right into retirement, becoming a sentimental family heirloom – perhaps “Dad’s watch” in the future. Interestingly, my wife, who isn’t particularly fond of many of the replica watches in my collection, actually shares my admiration for this one. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39mm White Dial holds a special place not only in my collection but also in our shared memories. It represents a fortunate moment – a visit to the Prague boutique, unaware of the bombshell news that would follow the next day.